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Merida Trip Report, Day 2, Part 2

On the way back, we asked our driver Jose where there was a good restaurant to eat, and he told us of a good one in Chuburna. We pulled up and got out. Jose went his on way, and the three of us sat down. The menu was on a chalkboard, but the prices weren't listed. The restaurant was basically split in two parts: one completely outdoors, then where we sat, semi-inside, with two walls. I ordered grilled garlic shrimp, and it was very good. Located only a couple blocks from the beach, the restaurant was a good place to watch families go back coming to and from the beach on the sand roads. Our guide sat on the other side of the restaurant, and ate by himself. I felt a little funny him being excluded, but at the same time, it was nice having a little privacy. After the meal, we discussed whether to pay for his meal, but decided we didn't need to. Funny enough, nothing was more true. He got up, and one waiter started to go after him, but I saw the restaurant manager waving the waiter away. Our driver didn't have to pay--his price was included in our "gringo" price meal for having referred us here! Nonetheless, the food was good.

On the way back, I told the driver we wanted to stop and visit Yucatan Country Club, a new development located midway between Merida and the coast. I nodded off for a few minutes, but woke up as we pulled off the highway. As we pulled into the driveway for the club, we were immediately impressed by the large facade, security gate, and lush golf course surroundings.

We met an English salesperson, who took us on a tour, and told us the club's story. The Club was created by ten Mexican entrepreneurs, apparently already wealthy in their own right. If you look at the website (http://www.yucatangolf.com/v25/), you'll be surprised to see no English language option. That's because the club is marketed toward locals and is, according to the salesperson, comprised primarily of locals, with a scattering of other Mexicans from surrounding states also having memberships. Currently, there are no residences built, though they're working on apartments and townhomes being sold preconstruction.

The club is large enough and well enough appointed to be more of a resort than a simple evening and weekend country club. The club has already built a Jack Nicklaus golf course with a pro shop. We walked through the clubhouse and were told the club had five restaurants, a couple of which we visited, and appeared high-end.

After visiting a state of the art gym, with weights, nautilus and aerobics and yoga rooms, we split up by sexes and toured our respective locker rooms, which were more luxe than I'd seen in any other club. As we walked in, we were greeted by an attendant, and a masseuse. The lockers contained multiple showers, a steam bath and a dry sauna. The lockers weren't just for showering, though. Inside the locker room was a fully-stocked bar and lounge (!), as well as a private patio with its own lap pool.

Speaking of pools, the club has a Mark Spitz aquatic center, with numerous 25 meter lap lanes, complete with swimming platforms. Of course, there were a few outdoor pools for relaxation as well, including a water park for kids. Finally, we took a look at the tennis courts, primarily (synthetic) clay, with a few hard courts, and also a paddleball court (think a mini-sized court that looks something like outdoor racquetball and ping pong put together). I was told there were two tennis pros on site.

Finally, we discussed the apartment build-out plan, which included a required country club membership purchase (at approximately $40,000 U.S.). Apartments, together with the membership, started in the high 200s, and went higher for each floor. Construction on the current units was expected to be completed by year's end 2011.


D and I were both impressed. The club was perhaps a half-hour or slightly more from Merida's airport, located close to the city and to the beach (in fact, membership at this club came with membership at one of the owner's beach clubs at his hotel at a nearby beach).

On the downside, I'd miss having the actual beach right there--though to be fair, there was plenty of water all around. In addition to the pools, there were numerous natural cenotes that had been dynamited to create beautiful, deep and large ponds (so much so that they were marketing waterfront houses).

My biggest concern was the usability of the sports facilities during the low season. When we visited, at 2:00 in the afternoon, it was probably 100 degrees. At this time of year, a North American could not comfortably play golf or tennis at the club, except in the early morning and late evening. I posited to D that it might be more enjoyable, for the same money, to purchase a lot in the club (along with the club membership), then buy and rehab a house in Merida.

We came back to the hotel around 3:30, hot and tired. I went out to the small pool for a couple of hours, talking to P when he and N arrived back from their day trip to the cenotes. They had a good time, and I regretted not having an opportunity to go (though not my choice to visit the beaches and look at real estate).

After cleaning up, I took the opportunity to walk around a bit by myself at around 5:00. At 5:00, lots of locals were eating, but best I can tell, it was a late Latin lunch, because by 7, the restaurants were empty again until, say, 9:00 or later. I stopped at a Sorbet shop at one of the plazas and had a tamarind sorbet--tart, cold, and a wake-up to my tongue--it reminded me a bit of one of my favorite smoothies I used to drink.

We all met to go out at around 7:00 p.m. We walked around a bit, and ended up at a restaurant called Pancho's. Pancho's, our local guide information said, was a tourist restaurant, but still good. I'd say it was just okay. No locals could be found inside. Apparently, the theme was somehow built around Pancho Villa, though inside, they played Cuban salsa music and offered lots of Cuban food choices. I ended up with a South American style steak with salad. Everyone except me had margaritas, and said they were watery and poor. My steak was good, but everything was overpriced.

Afterward, we went out to the plazas and just people watched and shopped a bit in the outdoor markets. The doors to the Governor's Palace were open, and after asking the guards if we could go in (we could), we went inside. A beautiful palace, it was now apparently used more as a museum of early Yucatecan history involving Mayans and the Caste Wars. While it was very informative, the history writer definitely had a slightly jaded view of history.

We went back late, and I went to bed pleasantly tired.

Labels: Chelem, Chuburna, Merida, Yucatan Country Club

posted by Wesley Deaton @ 9:13 PM